The Critic Magazine

The brats who ruin brunch

A SUNDAY MORNING in London, my daughter is three. She wakes up, we read a story, go downstairs for breakfast, wrestle her into jacket and boots, go out for a long walk, feed the ducks, a bit of swinging and sliding at the playground. Back home, I check the time. It’s 7.30 am.

Brunch has had a bad rap of late. Back in the day when we all wanted to be New Yorkers, brunch was cool and aspirational, a sophisticated, leisurely pastime for the moneyed metropolitan in

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