BRITAIN’S most established wine magazine is named Decanter. I expect many of us possess one or more of the bulbous glass receptacles it is named after; I remember a row of them sitting on a sideboard at my parents’ house. They can be beautiful objects, especially those from the 18th century. But how often do any of us use them?
My sense is that decanting wine has gone out of fashion—not reports that decanting has never been the practice at Burgundy’s most celebrated domain.)