Country Life

A king’s ramsons

ISTORICALLY consumed only in times of famine, local names reflect the British disdain for wild garlic—Devil’s posey, onion stinkers, stinking Jenny, snake’s food and more. Garlic (the cultivated form, at least) gained a little traction in Victorian times with the fashion for French food among the wealthy, but it didn’t last. My mother (not one of the wealthy) managed 65 years in the kitchen without troubling garlic of any stripe and rare

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