The climb began with an ava (kava) ceremony with the matai (chief). We were welcomed into his fale (house)and invited to sit cross-legged on the floor. A cup made from half a coconut shell was dipped several times into the ava pot and poured back to test the colour and consistency of the ava. Once he was satisfied with its look, the cup was formally offered to me, and I raised the cup with two hands, said "manuia" and drained it. The bitter liquid numbed my tongue, but it otherwise had little effect. Margaret and Tino, in turn, drank a toast from the same cup before the ceremony continued with the guide and porters, who drank several cups as if hydrating for the hot walk ahead.
Mt Silisili, at the height of 1,858m, is the highest point in this part of the Pacific;
