Adventure Magazine

FAILURE IN THE NAME OF SAFETY

If you’re going to be a mountaineer you’ve got to make peace with the fact that you are going to be a failure, repeatedly. Over the course of your climbing career you will attempt climbs you won’t get up because you’re (pick one or more) too scared, too weak, too slow, too fast, too early, too late, too tired, too hungry, can’t see, chose the wrong partner, wrong clothes, you’re hungover, forgot the crucial equipment, brought too much equipment, brought too little equipment, toilet paper got wet, weather was too/hot/ cold/wet/dry/windy, chose the wrong day/season/time of life and so on.

In fact, the list of excuses for your upcoming string of failures is almost endless and over the course of your climbing career you use the entire spectrum of defences to explain how useless you really are.

But we all know that in climbing these failures are justified, right? After all, the argument goes, we do have to fail at times in the name of safety. There is certainly no argument about that. We must be prepared to change our plans or back off ahigh. There are simply times when there is no doubt about the level of risk we are facing that makes retreat imperative, such as, a storm that drops lots of snow and creates an avalanche hazard that you can’t sit out until it stabilises, and you simply have to leave.

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