Tatler Singapore

Devil’s in the Detail

Alvin Leung is the personification of sheer will. When Tatler meets him for a coffee on a grey, humidity-drenched morning before he’s due to fly out of Hong Kong, the self-proclaimed “Demon Chef” immediately demonstrates a remarkable ability to occupy space: his voice booms as if amplified by an invisible megaphone, and he gestures often and vigorously, occasionally threatening to discombobulate the customers sitting nearby.

“I think the best thing to say about me is my control of the unpredictable,” he says. “I think the main element is surprise, and my unpredictability is an attraction.”

The surprise he’s referring to in this case is the relocation of his original claim to fame, Bo Innovation, from its long-time Wan Chai location to a new home in Central’s H Code building. Perhaps it was time: despite being predicated on an “X-treme Chinese” culinary philosophy designed for maximum shock value—the best example being a

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