Los Angeles Times

What is a dumpling? It's more complicated than you think

LOS ANGELES — What is a dumpling? That's the question I posed to dozens of chefs and other experts over the last year on my quest to understand one of the world's most beloved, pervasive foods. "Technically, a spring roll is a dumpling," chef Shirley Chung says during a recent visit to her Ms. Chi restaurant in Culver City. Seated next to her at a table are food writer Andy Wang and culinary ...
A tray of monta with tomato and yogurt sauce from the Monta Factory in Glendale, California.

LOS ANGELES — What is a dumpling?

That's the question I posed to dozens of chefs and other experts over the last year on my quest to understand one of the world's most beloved, pervasive foods.

"Technically, a spring roll is a dumpling," chef Shirley Chung says during a recent visit to her Ms. Chi restaurant in Culver City. Seated next to her at a table are food writer Andy Wang and culinary consultant and event producer Caryl Chinn. I sought counsel from these three because they are known for their dumpling expertise — after all, they refer to themselves as the Dumpling Mafia. "The definition is [it] has a

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