You don’t have to be a mycologist, or a vegetarian, to appreciate the potential of mushrooms—especially on the grill. Not built like plants or animals, they are made from a heat-stable substance called chitin that’s responsible for their dense-yet-tender chew and that affords them the unique superpower of being almost impossible to overcook. Once mushrooms shed some of their water and damp-earth rawness, their abundant umami stores come to the fore and mingle with the grill’s smoky char: a combination that makes for some compelling and flexible savoriness. Go big on the salt and pepper or season them more specifically to complement whatever else you’re grilling. There’s a whole kingdom to experiment with: umbrella-like shiitakes; ruffled maitakes; and the ubiquitous brushed-suede trio of buttons, cremini, and portobellos.
Under Water
As with all mushroom cookery, the first thing to do is tackle their water. Mushrooms have tons of it (80 to 90 percent by weight), much of which needs to go before
