Cook's Illustrated

KITCHEN NOTES

What is it

This 9-inch-long implement, with a ridged handle fashioned from deer horn and a curved head made of silver, is a Stilton scoop. Diners in 18th-century England employed the utensil to excavate individual portions from a full wheel of the country’s famous creamy, crumbly Stilton blue cheese. The custom of scooping the cheese was captured in this old saying: “Drink a pot of ale, eat a scoop of Stilton, every day, you will make ‘old bones.’” Today scooping from a wheel is considered wasteful, and the cheese is usually sliced. That said, when I dug the scoop into a tall round of Stilton, it worked very nicely to carve out a spoon-size portion of the cheese, and its curved sides kept the crumbs intact. –S.D.

The Best Brine for Salmon

In applications such as our Double-Glazed Salmon (page 9),

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Cook's Illustrated

Cook's Illustrated4 min read
Baja’s Shrimp and Vegetable Tacos
Tacos gobernador, or “governor’s tacos,” are food fit for a VIP. The recipe was born about 30 years ago, when Francisco Labastida Ochoa, the governor of the Mexican state Sinaloa, paid a visit to Mazatlán’s Los Arcos restaurant. The restaurant’s chef
Cook's Illustrated4 min read
No-Commitment Refrigerator Preserves
Refrigerator jams and jellies are gateway preserves: quick, easy, attractive ways to bottle up peak-season produce at its best. The formulas are basic (fruit, sugar, lemon juice); the batches are typically small, so there’s no need to invest in bushe
Cook's Illustrated3 min read
The Beauty of Braised Bok Choy
So many greens are all leaf and no stem, but bok choy levels the ratio. At least 50 percent of each oblong head features thick, bright white ribs (“bok choy” is Cantonese for “white vegetable”) that stretch skyward and unfurl into a collar of jade-gr

Related