acos gobernador, or “governor’s tacos,” are food fit for a VIP. The recipe was born about 30 years ago, when Francisco Labastida Ochoa, the governor of the Mexican state Sinaloa, paid a visit to Mazatlán’s Los Arcos restaurant. The restaurant’s chef, eager to impress, found out that the governor adored his wife’s home-cooked shrimp tacos and used that as inspiration for a masterpiece: sweet, plump nuggets of chopped shrimp nestled in a colorful mélange of sautéed onion, poblanos, tomatoes, and serrano chiles; seasoned with spices; and folded into
