Gourmet Traveller

The art of…defining decadence

ast week, in Italy, I mortally offended an Italian chef, by using the wrong word to describe his tortelli. Invited to state the first word that came to mind as we bit into the pasta at Ai Due Platani in Parma, my companions – a Scottish chef and an Italian food journalist – murmured “erogenous” and “sensual”. My teeth sank through the perfectly al dente

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