The spa town of Anticoli di Campagna, one hour south of Rome in the province of Lazio, was famed locally for the waters from its spring – Fiuggi – for centuries. No one knew what the properties of these waters were, but at a time when, if you were unwell, your options were a herb concoction from an old woman or having your leg re-set by the local barber, spring waters seemed miraculous. At the end of the 13th century, Pope Boniface VIII, suffering from gallstones and having exhausted his prayers, said its mineral waters could ‘break stones’, and its reputation was made. The beautiful location must have helped – accessible from major towns but 700m above sea level, with cooling breezes in the summer. Visitors started to arrive, including Michelangelo, in
