Country Life

The first cut is the deepest

IN the gloom of a blustery autumnal afternoon, the amber glow from the wall lamps of The Ritz restaurant soothes the soul. A soft, contented buzz lifts and swells to the cupola and, everywhere you look, attentive waiters and waitresses flit about, some pushing silver-domed perambulators like proud new parents, one of which is trundling my way.

‘I could tear my hair out watching people go at a piece of meat with the wrong knife’

The art of guéridon service finds its pinnacle in this fabulous, flouncy hotel on Piccadilly, in its Arts de la Table menu. Here, a diligent waiter finishes and serves your food at the table, with a wonderful flourish

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