ANDREW MCCONNELL TRANSPORTS THE SENSES
SUBJECT Andrew McConnell
OCCUPATION Chef and restaurateur
INTERVIEWER Berry Liberman
LOCATION Melbourne, Australia
DATE October 2021
In between Melbourne’s epic, soul-crushing lockdowns (the longest in the world), there was a brief respite of things being open. In that time, I was lucky enough to have a reservation at Gimlet, the latest offering from one of the city’s true hospitality geniuses, Andrew McConnell. As I entered the space, I immediately felt like I’d got on a plane to New York and found the best brasserie in town. Like a good jazz song, it took me through a rolling stream of emotions, from oysters and champagne (joy) to moody cityscapes through the window (nostalgia) and world-class, unpretentious service (nourishment). It was an experience, not a meal. At one point I had to choke back tears. The best spaces move you and tell a story.
At the time of this interview, Melbourne is synonymous with lockdown (again). At the heart of this city is a thriving, world-leading, inspired, creative and thrilling food scene that we are yearning to be part of again. Through the fatigue and hopelessness, the endless meals cooked at home and mask-wearing to go to the shops, it’s the dream of going out and feeling fabulous that keeps us going. So much of this excitement has been infused by Andrew and his wife Jo’s iconic restaurants, from Cumulus Inc to Cutler & Co. These restaurants are more like transportation devices than your average hospitality venue. From the moment you walk in, you feel the attention to detail and incredible ease mixed with professionalism and caring hospitality.
With roots as a chef travelling the globe cooking in some of the world’s most illustrious restaurants, Andrew turned to imagining and designing concepts for spaces that he would want to eat and drink in. As we chatted on Zoom about homeschooling and creativity, I wondered whether an industry and a city that has suffered so much could get up off its knees and recover. Andrew has no doubt whatsoever. Lucky us.
BERRY LIBERMAN: It’s an honour to meet you. On so many levels, I admire anyone who makes beautiful spaces. But you make spaces for a lot of us, and I’m in awe at that. This issue of Dumbo Feather’s on treasured spaces because we’ve all been in our home spaces so intensely. And it’s made me think about how we inhabit those spaces, how they affect us, nourish us or otherwise. You came to mind because the first place I want to go to is Gimlet. Your incredible new restaurant-bar slash transportation device. [Laughs].
ANDREW MCCONNEL: It is, actually. It is transportation.
You’ve actually done it! It’s incredible. And when Melbourne is frequently named “most liveable city,” you’re one of the people who makes it that.
Oh that’s nice, thank you.
It’s true. So I want to know more of your story. I want to know how you’re inspired to make these spaces. I know you’re a chef, you’re this magical unicorn restaurateur [laughs]. How do you think about space?
Going back to what you said just now, how we’ve spent so much time in our own spaces, I think it’s interesting how everyone’s been forced to reflect on how they live and where they live and their own personal space. Ourselves included, in my house. It’s not really a silver lining at all, but it’s been enjoyable
