Country Life

Feeling hot, hot, hot

IT wasn’t love at first bite. Which is hardly surprising, as intense pain and amorous infatuation are hardly the most natural of bedfellows—unless you’re that way inclined. However, this is a column about food, rather than the exploits of the Marquis de Sade, and my lifelong infatuation with chillies started not with a whimper, but a bang. When, at the tender age of seven, my unsullied taste buds were flayed into submission by an excess of Tabasco sauce.

In fact, this was the only form of

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