Country Life

Flower power

THE cauliflower is not the most glamorous food to enthuse about. It has none of the romance of the Carolina allspice, the intense fragrance and flavour of the Szechuan pepper or the unbuyable deliciousness of the mulberry. More, it breaks a number of the rules I set myself: ordinarily, I adhere to friend and chilli expert Michael Michaud’s maxim to not grow vegetables that take anything like as long in their gestation as a child; I prioritise on

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