An expert’s guide to FORMAGGIO

Italians have been transforming the humble staple of milk into a vast array of gourmet ferments for centuries. Fiercely protected traditions, preserved via the globally recognised Denominazione di Origine Protetta (protected designation of origin or DOP) status are, in part, what make Italian cheeses so lauded. But it’s also the wide variety of textures and flavours that keep people in amore with formaggio. “Italian cheeses have become world-renowned because of their versatility. They’re not just a delicious table cheese, but they add so much to the culinary world and what we cook, especially in wintertime,” explains cheesemonger Anthony Femia, owner of Melbourne’s Maker and Monger. From grand wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano made to exacting standards, through to locally produced, hand-moulded spheres of mozzarella, Italian cheeses call upon tradition, expertly