OREGON
PINOT NOIR
95 Brittan Vineyards 2018 Gestalt Block Pinot Noir (McMinnville). The Brittan wines are all estate grown and designated by the particular soils underlying the different blocks of vines. Here the underlying basalt reduces crop load to less than one ton of fruit an acre, a miniscule reward for the work involved. The strong Van Duzer winds thicken the skins, punching up tannins. This is an extreme example of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, yet brilliantly realized. Tight, tough and tannic, it’s packed with mountain blackberry fruit, framed with sharp herbs and finished with residual flavors of black tea. Drink 2025–2035. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.6% Price: $60
95 Domaine Divio 2019 Kalita Vineyard Côte à Côte Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). For full review see page 106. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.9% Price: $60
95 Ken Wright 2018 Canary Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The depth of this wine is exceptional. Young, tight, tannic and herbal, it nonetheless takes a deep dive down through the palate. You’ll notice black fruits, tart citrus, fresh herbs, green tea and lemon rind flavors as you explore the depths. This needs more time, to be sure, but it should integrate and expand its flavors beautifully over the coming years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.3% Price: $63
94 Alloro 2018 Estate Riservata Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). The Riservata gets more (46%) new French oak than the regular estate bottling. It’s half Pommard, which pumps up the blue and purple fruits, and the barrel flavors are smoothly integrated. There’s a seam of espresso, a dash of baking spices, ripe and slightly grainy tannins, and a long glide through the finish. It’s a most satisfying reserve, which rewards the extra expense with deeper, richer flavors. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $60
Justina is the winery’s top reserve level cuvée, priced a notch above the Riservata. It is a best barrel selection, and is given extra exposure to new French oak. Tasted alongside the Riservata, the Justina is darker and toastier, with more coffee-toned tannins. In other words, bigger in every way. The black fruits are ripe and polished and stand up to the new barrel influence, plumping up the palate with a burst of blueberry, blackberry and black cherry. Tannins
