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  • Olive Magazine

    New dishes, fresh thinking

    May 20, 2021 4 minutes
    Words TONY NAYLOR

    Full-immersion dining

    Matt and Iain Pennington, The Ethicurean, Bristol

    Comeback creation: one-year-fermented miso broth

    Chefs (and brothers) Matt and Iain Pennington were determined to turn lockdown into a virtue. “It afforded us time to think,” says Matt, mainly about how staff could spend more time with fewer guests (social distancing has cut numbers to 30), explaining the methods that underpin the Ethicurean’s sustainable work – be that creative fermentation (vegetable charcuterie, anyone?) or using just-harvested produce from the adjacent walled garden.

    In this idyllic Somerset spot, dinner now starts with a garden tour and miso broth served under its stone archway. Let out with birch sap and garnished with

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