WISH THEY ALL COULD BE CALIFORNIA GRILLS

An integral aspect of the outdoor-living ethos, grilling is a year-round practice throughout much of California. And we’re not just talking about firing up steaks and flipping burgers: Across the state, chefs cook up a range of seared and smoked dishes rooted in global culinary traditions. Here, three share some favorites and recommend the Golden State wines that match best.

Grilled West Coast Swordfish with Marjoram and Pine Nut Relish

Ember restaurant is in Brian Collins’s hometown of Arroyo Grande, California, just a stone’s throw from the surf breaks of Pismo Beach. Six years in the kitchen at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse gave the chef and restaurant owner plenty of California cuisine cred, but his primary inspiration is Italian cooking. He says this dish