GOOD NEIGHBOURS

Sid Sahrawat

Sidart, Cassia and Sid at The French Café, Auckland

Splitting time between his three restaurants – Sidart, Cassia and Sid at The French Café – Sid Sahrawat’s adaptability has been key to his success. Following a stint as head chef at The Grove – where many of Auckland’s top chefs had their start – his first solo venture was Sidart, a fine diner hidden at the back of a shopping arcade, with views of the city. Cassia came next, serving robust dishes from the regions of Sahrawat’s native India. It’s modern, but the flavours are familiar and staples such as rice and naan are clearly made by expert hands. In 2018, he and his wife Chand – operations manager of the restaurants – took over Auckland institution The French Café, one of the most loved icons in the city.

True to form, they switched up their concepts and staff to accommodate the third restaurant, moving the food from Sidart to The French Café; while Sidart turned to focus on traditional Indian flavours, combined with the clever cooking techniques Sahrawat is known for. Here they forgo the stuffiness sometimes associated with formal dining, without sacrificing attention to detail. “We are on the creative edge,” says Sahrawat, “always pushing the envelope while using products that are as local as possible. Our food style has changed so much over the past few years, it’s been interesting how a lot of chefs are coming back to their roots.”

Imported spices excluded, Sahrawat is dedicated to using only local ingredients, making menu development critical and the food more focused. He is supportive of his team, encouraging them to move between restaurants, travel and gain new skills. Many have gone to work at some of Auckland’s most exciting new restaurants – and for that, the city is grateful.

John Dory with korma sauce and peas pulao

SERVES 4 // PREP 35 MINS // COOK 40 MINS (PLUS STANDING)

“I’m a big fan of coastal India, I lived there for three years,” says Sid Sahrawat. “You find a lot of John Dory in Kerala and Goa so this curry is all about those coastal flavours.”

200 gm basmati rice, rinsed under cold water
80 gm peas, podded or frozen
2½ tbsp grapeseed oil
4 John Dory fillets (180gm each), skin on Roasted almonds, Thai basil, and nasturtium leaves, to serve

KORMA SAUCE

60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil
2 onions, thinly sliced
6 garlic cloves, crushed
1½ tbsp finely grated ginger
1 green chilli, finely chopped
2½ tbsp garam masala
2 tbsp tomato paste
1 bunch coriander, leaves picked, stems and roots reserved, chopped