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ITTLE SILVER LININGS: small plates have no future. Covid might at least deliver us from the tyranny of tapas. Spanish friends have often confessed themselves literally bewildered by the idea of having tapas for dinner. Whether in Andalucía or Catalonia, tapas were properly bar snacks, tiny portions designed to soak up booze. Turning them into an event is basically the equivalent of the landlord of the Dog and Duck sticking a pickled egg on a plate andcharging you a tenner. Why would you?

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