The Critic Magazine

Creeping mediocrity

DON’T GET YOUR HOPES UP, this is the one in St Albans. In its heyday, the original Ivy on the edge of Covent Garden was the epitome of old-school West End glamour, but since acquiring the site in 2005, the restaurant world’s Dr Evil, Richard Caring, has merched out a further 30 establishments, scattering a bit of theatreland fairy glitter over the kind of small towns Binkie Beaumont spent his life trying to forget about.

There must be some kind of folk memory involved in the Ivy

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