Spring Flavor

For hyperseasonal chefs like Cheetie Kumar, Southern spring vegetables are a wonder. “I want all of the crunchy things and all of the green things,” says Kumar, the chef and co-owner of Garland in Raleigh. Last spring, as the nation shut down for the pandemic, she didn’t have the time to celebrate early season vegetables. Instead, she was scrambling. She and her husband, Paul Siler, temporarily closed the cozy bar they run below Garland and the airy performance space they operate above it. And at