THE WOMEN OF CHAMPAGNE

There’s a long tradition of women in Champagne. Or at least, there’s a long tradition of widows in Champagne who have taken over after their husbands or sons died. Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin Clicquot, Louise Pommery, Lily Bollinger are three of the most famous of these.

But those exceptional leading women are just that: exceptions. Like in most wine regions, women in Champagne have mostly been in the background.

Things are changing, though. A sign of the times is the formation of two groups that promote both their wines and the place of women in Champagne.

La Transmission brings together women in senior positions, which includes owners, directors and cellar masters, many in major houses. Les Fa’Bulleuses de Champagne is made up of young friends who have taken charge at independent family growers. It aims to preserve that independence and promote the group’s Champagnes in group tastings.

Here are portraits of five women who are taking their places in Champagne’s leadership.

Evelyne Roques Boizel

Champagne Boizel, Épernay

Now that she is retired after 47