A taste of the top 2019 Burgundies
Gevrey-Chambertin
1 TOP QUALITY Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 100
Rousseau Clos de Bèze is from three plots that total 1.42ha. Cyrielle believes the wine shows better in its youth than Chambertin, though both are vinified in the same way: destemmed, long maceration, gentle extraction, ageing in new François Frères barrels. The result is sublime: charming in its youth, with accessible notes of red and black fruits, spice, mineral and game and a velvety, dense texture that is firm but not forbidding. This has the substance to last 50 years if cellared well. Drink 2029-2069
Domaine Dujac, Chambertin Grand Cru 98
From 0.24ha of Clos de Bèze and 0.05ha of Chambertin, both parcels neighbouring Rousseau. In 2019, the vineyards in Gevrey were picked first because of the danger of water stress and sunburn. The wine is intense and perhaps a bit forbidding initially, but it’s packed with cherry fruit and a mineral, almost saline edge. The structure is very tannic, but this a wine with potential for the future. Drink 2029-2049
Faiveley, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru 98
From a 1.21ha domaine-owned parcel. After fermentation with a significant portion of whole clusters, the wine is aged 18 months in cask, 60% new. Super-ripe aromas of cassis and currant leap from the glass, with hints of mineral, smoke and spice. The texture is rich, almost fleshy, but despite the approachable feel, the fine-grained tannins carry this along to a lingering finish. This excels its peers in finesse and elegance. Drink 2024-2039
2 Denis Bachelet, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 97
With vines planted 1907-1917, opposite where the Combe Grisard lets out at the limits of Griotte-Chambertin, this is a site that retains great freshness even in hot years. The results in 2019 are spectacular. Ripe red and black berry fruit aromas, savoury/mineral character, muscular and tense yet with a subtle, refined silkiness that is truly exemplary. Drink 2024-2039
Morey-St-Denis
Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 98
Opens with a dizzying array of aromas, ranging from high-toned red fruits to ripe plummy black fruit all touched with spice and a hint of wild herbs and fresh flowers. After blending there was an average of 80% whole-cluster fermentation. The texture on the palate is concentrated but not heavy. There is a charming, silky aspect to it and, despite the tannin and density, the overall impression is one of finesse and elegance. Drink 2029-2049
TOP QUALITY Domaine Dujac, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 98
Dujac Clos de la Roche holdings include 0.58ha in the original Clos de la Roche heart of the vineyard. There are also 0.50ha in Monts Luisants, and 0.59ha in Les Chabiots, a total of nearly 2ha. In 2019, Dujac produced a spectacular wine, already very aromatic with ripe black cherry fruit and earthy spice notes. It is tannic and structured, but the texture of the tannins is silky, elegant and very refined. Marvellous. Drink 2029-2049
3 PRODUCER TO WATCH Laurent Ponsot, Clos-St-Denis Grand Cru 97
Produced from Ponsot’s métayage agreement with the Mercier family, whose plot is 0.38ha with vines planted in 1905. Made as Ponsot believes wines were two or three centuries ago: destemmed, punched down, aged in old casks, no SO. The result
