Decanter

Left Bank

Médoc & Haut-Médoc

Médoc 1 TOP VALUE Château Les Grands Chênes 92

One of my favourite of the Magrez stable for signposting the quality that’s available in AP Médoc, here showing inky depths to the colour and a generous punch of fruit to the attack. It has the signature glamour that you expect of the Magrez wines, with a slather of chocolate and coffee beans, but it doesn’t cover up the blackberry fruit. Enjoyable. 25% new oak. Drink 2025-2038

Château Potensac 92

Elegance and classicism: you really feel that you are in good hands in a great claret property with this. The fruit is ripe and yet fresh, and there are quite a lot of tannins that come in on the finish, along with an earthy unfussiness. This is enjoyable, it’s closed and should remain so for the next three or four years. The 2018 will give more immediate pleasure, but this will amply reward just a little more patience. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14.1%

Château Lestruelle CB 90

Good quality, lovely texture with rippling fruits. Not all Médocs have made it to full ripeness in 2019, but this is a good choice, with fruit on the fresher side showing raspberry, cherry and redcurrant notes, all rolled up with soft tannins and a sappy, mouthwatering finish. Worth seeking out. Drink 2023-2036

Haut-Médoc TOP SCORING Château La Lagune 3CC 94

Full-intensity plum colour, highly attractive aromatics that float up as soon as it hits the glass. Clear energy and tension through the body of the wine without the slightest dip in the mid-palate. Not the most exuberant of the classified growths, but this is seriously good quality, with tight cassis and fine tannins. Organic certified, in conversion to biodynamics. Drink 2028-2040 Alc 14%

2 TOP SCORING Château Sociando-Mallet 94

The last vintage under Jean Gautreau, and it’s a great one to remember him by. Serious, with shoulders and muscles, reflecting the excellent gravel and clay soils at this spot of the Médoc in St-Seurin de Cadourne. This is a long-term wine with blackcurrant and blackberry and well-formed tannins. 90% new oak. Consultant oenologist Michel-Bernard Couasnon. Drink 2027-2044

Château Arnauld CBE 93

A new cru bourgeois exceptionnel this year, on excellent terroir just to the north of the Margaux appellation. Beautifully bright violet colour and extremely smooth tannins even at this early stage. A serious Haut-Médoc – impressive, flashes of austerity, packed with dark fruit, enough acidity to ensure the walls close in through the palate and tell you this is not an early drinker, but a wine with ambition. Tasted twice, two weeks apart. Drink 2025-2038

TOP VALUE Château Belle-Vue CBE 93

Such an impressive run of vintages at this Haut-Médoc property that has just been named cru bourgeois exceptionnel. Deep purple colour, and a feeling of confident tannic hold from the off. The spice that Petit Verdot adds is clear, alongside well-brushed tannins, striking aromatics of brambly

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