The Field

Cabbages for kings

UNLIKE the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans, who considered them a luxury food capable of curing hangovers, aiding digestion and healing wounds, the cabbage today has a far humbler reputation. However, I hope to reinstate at least some of its former glory.

Part of the Brassicaceae family (more commonly called mustard), the modernday European cabbage descended from wild plants found around the coastal regions of the Mediterranean. Red, white and green varieties are suitable for cooking or eating raw.

My cabbage carbonara is the perfect accompaniment

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