BEAUJOLAIS TWO WAYS

Beaujolais is a land of hills, of steep vineyards and of clustered villages. It produces enjoyable and versatile red wines of great value, but don’t mistake this region for a one-trick pony.

An hour north of the city of Lyon, Beaujolais’s spirit is half in the north of France, looking toward Burgundy, and half in the south, with eyes toward the Rhône Valley and Languedoc.

That dichotomy is reflected in the region’s wines.

In the north, there are the ageworthy, always fascinating wines made in the Burgundian fashion and sold under the 10 village appellations of the Beaujolais crus: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly.

In the south, there are easy-drinking wines made with semicarbonic fermentation and sold under the Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages appellations.

All are terrific values. Among cru wines from the