Pilot Project
PICTURE A CHUNKY gas-fired stovetop. Twist a knob, and whoosh—a potent ring of fire licks at a metal grate. With a typical induction range, you push some buttons, and the reaction is silent and invisible. As a home cook who toiled on the fiery line of a Texas steakhouse through college, I see a gas range and something stirs in me, making me want to subject raw ingredients to the transformations of fire. Induction stovetops? They leave me cold.
Plenty of chefs share my view. “Flames are at the heart of what
