GO SLOWER IN Samoa
A Samoan sunrise has torched the South Pacific sky like an Australian bushfire, illuminating the capital of Apia as the plane wheels kiss the tarmac.
Minutes later, I am in a mini-van, carving through the centre of the main island of Upolu, past coconut trees, churches, cackling chickens and clackety buses. It’s both chaos and calm, wrapped in a palm frond.
There’s dogs and kids jumbled into this magical mix along the roadside, where brazen boys and giggling girls with black
