SOLID AS A ROCK

Surfing is often depicted as high stakes: big drops, cavernous barrels, racing sections, heavy hold-downs and waves of consequence. But this is not my surfing world. My surfing life is far less extreme. Warm, clear water, fun right-hand point breaks, sandy white beaches, crowded lineups and sunny days year round. This is the subtropical world I grew up in, and I’ve never pretended otherwise.

Then a few years ago I moved to the west coast of New Zealand’s