ULUWAT-YOU WAITING FOR?
WINNER OF THE 2021 SURFING LIFE TRAVEL WRITING COMPETITION
Bali comes a close second to Hawai’i as the place that has forged and moulded what surfing has been. And what it is to us fortunate enough to sup from its bosom and feel its radiant energies … its therapy. I had the full spiritual experience walking down the winding track of the Uluwatu cliffs, and attaching my leg-rope in the low-tide cave. Standing there, feeling the accumulated history of that place and its contribution to the fibre and culture of surfing: escapism, travel, exploration, rebellion, performance, and experience. It was Morning of the Earth meets The Search and everything in between. Then, I paddled out across the vast reef to
