EDITOR’S NOTE
Feb 10, 2020
2 minutes
– Glen
t was 1994. The year was a day old. I had made a resolution to surf everyday. It made perfect sense. Stay fit, improve my technique, possibly attract a new sponsor. Instead, after three consecutive days of surfing The Berg in onshore wind speeds that could strip paint off buildings, all I had to show for my resolve was blue bottle welts, swollen glands,
You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.
Start your free 30 days