The Prix Fixe Is In
May 11, 2019
4 minutes
By JEFF RUBY
Photography by JEFF MARINI
Y RELATIONSHIP WITH TASTing menus is a long and winding road, littered with lusty declarat ions and unmet expectations. As a young writer, I considered myself an aesthete (though I wasn’t sure how to pronounce the word), and I saw the tasting menu as the pinnacle of food as art, a sanctioned bacchanal for ambitious gluttons. I recall a five-hour feast during Grant Achatz’s earliest days at Trio that lasted until 1 a.m. There were at least 15 moments that bowled me over, and the whole thing left me in a glorious food coma for 24 hours.
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