New Ramen On The Block
On a busy Friday night, few Denver restaurant kitchens run at the hyper-balletic pace of the big, shiny, six-month-old kitchen at the new Uncle in the Speer neighborhood. Recently, I counted 17 cooks and other staff, all abuzz and gracefully in sync, plunging baskets of noodles into water, packing white bao buns into steam baskets like Michelin men into tiny saunas, and building pyramids of grilled shrimp on beds of crispy rice. It’s a cheerful show. A culinary crew in good form knows it’s in good form, and the camaraderie at Uncle 2.0 reminded me of a Broadway musical troupe with a hit on its hands.
The menu at this second Uncle is more ambitious than that of the first-born, smaller Highland shop. It
