A taste of the top 2018 Burgundies
Gevrey-Chambertin
RED WINE OF THE VINTAGE Domaine Dugat-Py, Grand Cru Chambertin 99
The only thing wrong with this incredible wine – my red Burgundy for the second year running – is that there’s so little of it: 200 litres to be precise. It’s pricey at €550 a bottle, but close to Pinot Noir perfection. Fermented with 90% whole bunches and aged in a single new barrel, it’s a stunning, old-vine cuvée. So fresh, so poised, so complex, so long, with spice and summer flower aromas, textured, fine-grained tannins and a chalky, red berry-infused finish. Drink 2024-2038 Alcohol 13%
1 TOP QUALITY Domaine Armand Rousseau, Grand Cru Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 97
Plush, textured and grippy, this has understated richness, sinewy tannins, well-integrated 100% new wood and a chalky, refreshing finish. The Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru also scored 97. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.5%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Cécile Tremblay, Grand Cru Chapelle-Chambertin 97
Cécile Tremblay’s range is among the best in Burgundy in 2018. This is a textured Pinot with lots of body and concentration, lacy, fine-grained tannins, fresh balancing acidity and underlying grip and tension. Evidence of a feminine touch or just great winemaking? Drink 2023-2033 Alc 14%
Domaine Denis Bachelet, Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin 97
From two 100-year-old parcels totalling 0.43ha. Scented, elegant and racy, it shows no sign of the heat of the vintage, blending texture, fruit weight, subtle oak (50% new wood) and the perfume and finesse that are hallmarks of the domaine’s style. Wonderful winemaking from a quietly spoken superstar. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
2 TOP QUALITY Domaine Denis Mortet, Grand Cru Mazis-Chambertin 97
Made with 40% whole bunches and aged in 70% new wood, it’s an extremely elegant, refined expression of the grand cru with wonderful underlying tension and focus and a spicy, sappy finish. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13%
Domaine Duroché, Grand Cru Griotte-Chambertin 97
Pierre Duroché has 0.112ha in this tiny grand cru. Entirely whole-bunch fermented and aged in older wood. Floral, sensuous and indecently sweet, it’s fresh, ethereal and has impressive length and crisp minerality. If only there were more than 80 litres… Drink 2023-2028 Alc 12.5%
3 Domaine Fourrier, Vielles Vigne, 1er Cru Clos-St-Jacques 97
Every bit as good as the grands crus Jean-Marie Fourrier bottles under his domaine and négociant labels. Density, plushness and poise, with spicy, sappy black cherry and bramble fruit, scented 20% new oak and a detailed, refreshing finish. The class of the terroir shines through. Drink 2023-2032 Alc 13%
Domaine Launay-Horiot, Grand Cru Chambertin 97
The best wine Xavier Horiot has made yet from this terroir – especially praiseworthy in a year like 2018. Chalky, refreshing and serene, with balletic poise and elegance, racy acidity and stylish 75% new oak. It carries its structure lightly, lingering on the back palate. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Sylvie Esmonin, 1er Cru Clos St-Jacques 97
One of Sylvie Esmonin’s best-ever Clos St-Jacques. Sourced from a 1.6ha parcel made, as usual, with 75% whole bunches it is rich, layered and complete, with lots of perfume, well-handled new oak, palate-coating tannins and a long, mineral-fresh finish. Drink 2023-2025 Alc 14%
Olivier Bernstein, Grand Cru Mazis-Chambertin 97
Often among the most structured wines in Olivier Bernstein’s array of grands crus, this hails from two parcels of 90-year-old vines. Built to last, this has considerable depth, power and concentration, with
