Cook's Illustrated

KITCHEN NOTES

What is it?

ultitasking kitchen equipment is all the rage these days, but this vintage tool is good for only one thing: making cavatelli pasta. Popular in Italy’s southern regions of Puglia, Basilicata, and Calabria, the pasta resembles a tiny hot dog bun ( means “little caves” in Italian) and can have a smooth exterior or ridges called that make it more efficient at picking up sauce. For centuries, Italian cooks painstakingly rolled and shaped the pasta (traditionally made with just semolina and water) by hand, but the introduction of hand-cranked machines in the early 1900s greatly simplified the process. To use this vintage wood and aluminum model from the 1950s, I first rolled and cut my semolina dough into 1-inch-wide ribbons and then fed them through

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