Icy Herb-Infused Granitas

Air conditioning, cold pools, and automatic ice makers help make hot, humid weather more bearable, but the calendar still says summer, and the foods we crave — air conditioning or no air conditioning — are cool, full-flavored, and refreshing.

Taste buds tend to dull in summer; the proverbial dog days are no time for subtle flavors or dishes with rich ingredients, such as butter and heavy cream. More satisfying are foods with the bright notes of tart-sweet lemonade or spicy salsa, the rousing textures of crunchy coleslaw or cucumber salad, and the moisture of a juicy tomato or a wedge of slurpy watermelon.

And what