<em>Gentefied: </em>The Netflix Show That Makes Gentrification Personal

The three judges survey a competitor as they scribble notes about his performance. The young man before them is sweating, having completed a series of grueling exercises; the anticipation reddens his face as palpably as the tequila shot an onlooker hands him does. And then, the ordeal is over. The smirking judges render their verdict in dramatic, unambiguous Spanish: “Fallaste. No eres Mexicano.” (“You failed. You’re not Mexican.”)

So ends a particularly amusing and revelatory satirical sequence in the new Netflix series , which premieres tomorrow. One of the show’s main characters, Chris (played by Carlos Santos), has grown weary of his fellow line cooks cracking jokes about his ethnic bona fides, so he in the back alley, and list three soap operas starring the queen of telenovelas, Thalía.