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  • Los Angeles Times

    In Peru, singular culinary experiences at the opposite ends of the spectrum

    by Maya Lau, Los Angeles Times Dec 09, 2019 5 minutes

    SACRED VALLEY, Peru - The road up the mountain was empty and rough. It seemed impossible that one of Peru's most exclusive restaurants, perched next to an eerie, lesser-known Inca ruin, would appear at the end of the red dirt path.

    To get there, our driver navigated a wooden bridge barely wide enough for his car and honked his horn before every bend. We bumped along past mud brick houses and girls with bowl-shaped baskets tied to their heads as we climbed so high that the snow-capped peaks in the distance reached our eye level.

    We were headed in February to Mil, a restaurant a 90-minute drive from Cuzco opened last year by Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez. It aims to celebrate the centuries-old cuisine of the Andes with an avant-garde twist.

    The establishment overlooks Moray, an ancient formation of concentric circles made into

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