A Culinary Journey Through 'The Food Of Sichuan'

The secret sauce and spices of Sichuanese cooking. Get ready for a master class. Recipes included.

Guest

Fuchsia Dunlop, cook and food writer specializing in Chinese cuisine. Award-winning author of the new book “The Food of Sichuan.” She’s also the author of “Land of Plenty,” among other books. First Westerner to train as a chef at the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine in Chengdu. (@fuchsiadunlop)

Recipes

Dry-fried “Eels” (Shiitake Mushrooms)

ganbian shanyu 干煸鳝鱼

This delicious example of Buddhist trompe l’oeil cooking is based on a memorable version I enjoyed in the restaurant at the Temple of Divine Light, near Chengdu. The “eels,” made from dried shiitake mushrooms, look strikingly similar to the real paddy eels used in the classic Sichuanese recipe. The original dish did not include garlic, which strict Buddhists avoid as one of the pungent vegetables thought to inflame carnal passions, but I’ve added it here for extra deliciousness. Dried mushrooms are particularly important in Chinese vegetarian cooking because of their enticing savory flavors and satisfyingly meaty textures. I like to use long,