The Christian Science Monitor

Cafe culture: France fights to keep its fraternité

Paris patrons share a meal at a café April 12, 2016. Proprietors have adapted in various ways to the changing café culture, including asking customers who spend hours doing remote work to buy a drink every hour and leave at noon to make way for lunch-goers.

Old movie posters, edges fraying, hang unceremoniously on the walls of Café Parisien. The colored tile floor is cracked in places and the bar needs revamping. The Wi-Fi is spotty. But owner Zehor Ouaaz doesn’t plan on renovating.

“There are things we could fix up – the floor, the bar – but we want to keep the spirit of the cafe, its antique feel,” says Mrs. Ouaaz, over a plate of quiche and salad. “It’s part of its charm.”

For 10 years, Mrs. Ouaaz and her husband Reda have owned the Café Parisien in the 19th  arrondissement of Paris, in a neighborhood that has become increasingly gentrified. But while the clientele may have changed over the years, Mrs. Ouaaz wants her cafe to remain something consistent in the area.

“We’re a place where people

“The life of the neighborhood”A shift in the countryside, tooMaintaining the “human quality” 

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