Los Angeles Times

Chris Erskine: Have a California moment at Neptune's Net, a landmark seafood shack in Malibu

MALIBU, Calif. - Never sneer at Malibu. Without it, can you imagine the number of pale celebrities we'd have to endure? Cher would look like Andy Warhol.

We're headed up there today in a convertible, naturally, for how else are you going to properly parse Malibu? Bring your sunscreen, a favorite faded cap. Clear your calendar, for you know how Pacific Coast Highway can get. It is our Northwest Passage, and not for wimps.

But good gawd, August on PCH is sublime.

From our drop-top Jeep, the ocean looks like a disco ball, with glints of sunlight and the toothy snarls of demigod surfers and

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