Los Angeles Times

Beyond Erewhon: Inside the LA grocery store where all the cool vegans are flocking

Asia Rain, left, and Matt Fontana, owners of Besties Vegan Paradise in East Hollywood, sit outside the store awaiting the start of their vegan run club.

LOS ANGELES -- On a rainy Saturday afternoon in late March, a block of East Hollywood is unusually quiet but for the corner of Fountain Avenue and North Edgemont Street. There, a line snakes halfway around the perimeter of a little vegan grocery store that's sparking with activity.

Inside, grime music blasts as a pop-up vendor doles out vegan banh mi to shoppers who clutch bamboo toilet paper and vegan lox. Even a Siberian husky named Chaka gets in on the action, scarfing up a vegan dog treat — every canine who comes through the door gets one.

"Welcome!" yells Matt Fontana, the store's tattoo-sleeved co-founder.

"Hey Paul, hi!" Fontana bellows in his New York accent, while filling a cup with the store's vegan soft serve ice cream for another customer. Then, waving his free arm: "Everyone, you guys — come on in!"

It's a typical day at Besties Vegan Paradise. Since opening in 2019, the grocery store has become a hub for a particular type of cool vegan in Los Angeles. The clientele is culturally diverse, spanning age, gender and style. But it coalesces around especially trendy aesthetics and a staunch desire to live responsibly.

Environmentally conscious, animal-loving DJs, chefs, writers, filmmakers, graphic designers and other creatives mingle there over free natural wine and

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