The story behind why Magnus Nilsson is closing Fäviken
JARPEN, Sweden - Magnus Nilsson is sitting in the April sun looking out at the garden at Faviken, his 24-seat restaurant in Jamtland, in central Sweden. The snow is melting fast and the garden, one of two that supplies about half of the restaurant's produce, is a network of browns and grays. But the garden he's talking to me about, as we survey the approach of spring, is an 18-hectare (about 44-acre) apple orchard in southern Sweden that he and his wife, Tove, bought last fall. That's where his mind has been lately, and where his considerable energy and curiosity will be planted soon, full time, after he closes his 11-year-old world-class restaurant for good in December.
"In every strategic way, this is not a wise decision," says Nilsson. "But what's the reason that someone runs a
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