The Atlantic

The High-Stakes World of Christmas Tamales

“Tamales are different not just from country to country, but also from region to region and even from <em>abuela</em> to <em>abuela</em>.”
Source: Andy Reynolds / Getty

At first glance, a tamal might seem simple enough: masa dough stuffed with filling, wrapped in a husk or a leaf and steamed. But as those who have made tamales know, their simplicity is a ruse. It’s a process that takes hours and often days to complete, requiring nimble fingers to wrap the palm-sized packages of dough and watchful eyes on them while they steam—an ordeal best left for the holidays.

For many Latinos in the United States, the holiday season is synonymous with tamales. Families gather together to make and eat these beloved packages, often well into the

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