Swells will actually show up when they’re supposed to (and be as big as you expected)
Jun 29, 2018
3 minutes
Stop for a second and think about how amazing surf forecasting is at this moment in time. Thanks to modern technology, you can wake up, unlock your smartphone, and, while still in bed, pull up a global swell model to discover that a large purple blob will send waves to your local break two weeks from now (at which point you’ll likely be too “sick” to go to work). Sixty years ago, the heads of
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