May - June 2021

Wanderlust

The magazine for people with a passion for travel

Wanderlust1 min read
Introducing The New Features Of Your Wanderlust
Travel, meet and engage meaningfully with the people of the land, from Alaska to Panama, from Australia to Indonesia… Explore the world’s foremost heritage sites, from mythical temples to fortified citadels to imposing cathedrals and exquisitely pre
Wanderlust1 min read
Wanderlust
Editor-in-Chief George Kipouros @georgiostravels Founding Editor Lyn Hughes@wanderlust.lyn Managing Editor Tom Hawker Special Features Editor Rosie Fitzgerald @rosiefitzgerald Digital Editor Sarah Riches @healthy_holiday Contributing Editors Sarah Ba
Wanderlust1 min readInternet & Web
Discover our Newly Re-launched website
Latest travel news @wanderlustmag See behind the scenes @wanderlustmag Join the chat at www.facebook.com/ wanderlusttravel magazine Sign up to our newsletter for news, offers and inspiration at wanderlustmagazine.com For the latest onlin
Wanderlust2 min read
Dear Readers, Wanderlust Club Members,
For a very long time, we’ve taken travel as granted. Yet for more than a year now, many of us have had to fulfil our wanderlust only through armchair travel, through throwbacks to our travel memories, through virtual travel. Indeed, we’re so grateful
Wanderlust1 min read
Social Talk
“Catching up on @wanderlustmag and this column from @LolaAkinmade has beautifully captured everything I miss most about travel: the people.” @Lorna_Explorer ”I can’t travel at present, but I still travel through this magazine. I have tried other
Wanderlust1 min read
#wanderlustmag
”Ticking off our final sighting of the big five; a lone lion guards her kingdom in Serengeti NP, Tanzania.” @hannahsimm_ ”Walking the South Downs Way in Sept. Here looking back over the Seven Sisters.” Gunilla Roberts “The temple ruins are a glorio
Wanderlust1 min read
Your Tales Of...
”We were in France when the UK announced that it would introduce a two-week quarantine for returning travellers. We made it to the earlier ferry just before the deadline for a quarantine. The kids found it exciting!” Jackie Borland “My husband was
Wanderlust2 min read
Your Letters
I recently put together a photo book of shared worldwide adventures for a friend’s 60th. We started travelling together in 1989 so there were many photographs to browse; lockdown afforded me the many hours this took. Reading the travel journals I kep
Wanderlust3 min read
15 Things You Miss Most About Travel
1 Putting in the hours “I miss the excitement of researching, which would include how to travel there, options of places to stay and places to visit and activities that are available – but not necessarily booking too much in advance.” Peggy Martin
Wanderlust1 min read
Zimbabwe
The highlights: We visited Hwange National Park after a harsh drought. On one of our game drives, we came across a dehydrated newborn elephant calf struggling to get on its feet in the blazing sun. Our rangers diverted a little water to him and when
Wanderlust3 min read
What’s New
Visitors to the USA’s newest national park, New River Gorge in West Virginia, can explore a railroad dating back to 1872, which is lined with rusty mine cars and coal workers’ gravestones. But while these relics are reminders of the area’s industrial
Wanderlust1 min readRegional & Ethnic
Taste The History Of Hawaii
Deeply rooted in tradition and flavoured by a respect for locally sourced ingredients, Hawaiian cuisine combines rich comfort food with a cultural heritage that dates back a millennia, to when Polynesian settlers first set foot on Hawaii’s volcanic i
Wanderlust2 min readRegional & Ethnic
5 Dishes You Should Try (and Where To Try Them)
Although ‘poke bowls’ have recently become trendy outside of Hawaii, you can’t beat the real deal. Hawaiian poke (which roughly translates to ‘cut into chunks’ in the Hawaiian language) consists of bite-sized cubes of raw fish marinated with a mixtur
Wanderlust1 min readCooking, Food & Wine
Did You Know...
Hawaii’s famous for its food trucks, and for good reason. You’ll find them all over the islands serving up modern takes on local classics like buttery garlic shrimp and Portuguese malasada doughnuts. Some of the best can be found on Oahu’s north shor
Wanderlust2 min read
Contributors
After first visiting French Polynesia in 1991, Celeste fell head over heels for both the islands and her future husband. After spending 15 years living in – and writing about – them, she lays out the best way to explore them on p90. How will you tra
Wanderlust2 min read
Viewfinder
With a population of just under 8,000, the USA’s smallest state capital was originally named after the city in southern France. The ambience, however, is quintessentially New England, with visitors exploring quaint architecture, a lively arts scene a
Wanderlust2 min read
Behind The Mask
We all look forward to travelling again but, even as restrictions lift, we need to understand the precautions that still need to be taken. Probably the most important is proper mask use. In the UK we are only told to wear a face covering yet although
Wanderlust1 min read
The WHO Say That To Use A Mask Safely
• Hands must be cleaned before putting on your mask, as well as before and after taking it off, and each time you touch it. • Ensure it fits and covers your nose, mouth and chin. • Once a mask is removed, it should be stored in a clean plastic bag. I
Wanderlust2 min read
Negotiating Nomadland
With great locations, you don’t need to over-do it.Two fine new films are available to stream that don’t sugarcoat the raw beauty of where they’ve been shot. Nomadland [from 30 April; streaming on Disney+ Star] follows Frances McDormand’s grieving Fe
Wanderlust1 min readFashion
6 Sustainable Pieces Of Kit For Spring
The Astoria West women’s hybrid sandal’s been designed with sustainability, versatility and comfort in mind. It has a webbed upper containing recycled PET plastic bottles and treated with KEEN’s Eco Anti-Odour system. Water-repellent, it has Aquagrip
Wanderlust2 min read
Read This!
The final work from the late chef, writer and TV presenter gets a helping hand over the finishing line from his friends, supplementing Bourdain’s typically sharp-scribed rough guides to some of his favourite places. After being the victim of a race-
Wanderlust1 min read
5 Crafts Buy In To Jordan Try And
Watch artists restoring mosaics on a tour of Madaba Institute for Mosaics Art and Restoration, or observe artists creating new mosaics at Jordan Jewel nearby. Firas Abdullah says, “Jordan Jewel’s artisans create scenes by hand with colourful stones h
Wanderlust1 min read
Where To Buy…
Mosaics Prices aren’t fixed at Jordan Jewel so take note of them in various workshops before making an offer. As a guide, a 1 sq m mosaic takes 300 hours to complete and costs around £3,020 with shipping. jordanjewel.com Ostrich eggs Ostriches are b
Wanderlust7 min read
Voyage of Discovery
Like a rehabilitated Captain Ahab, Daniel Zitterbart led his scientists into the sort of supra-natural stillness only Antarctica can deliver. I followed them in an inflatable Zodiac, cold snapping at my fingers, squinting at glossy icebergs fissured
Wanderlust3 min read
The Trip
The author travelled with Audley Travel (01993 838615, audleytravel.com/antarctica). Audley Travel offers 15-night, tailor-made citizen-science adventure trips to Antarctica operated by expedition experts Polar Latitudes (polar-latitudes.com), starti
Wanderlust3 min readCooking, Food & Wine
Why Malta Should Be Top Of Your Post-lockdown Travel List
From Crusaders to pirates, everyone has always wanted a piece of Malta. It’s little wonder. Near-constant sunshine, crystalline seas and majestic, fortified cities speak to a long history and a vibrant present. Exploring its three islands is the perf
Wanderlust3 min read
Win! £500 Of Quechua Or Forclaz Gear
With the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, the summer of 2021 is set to be the season of the staycation. If there’s one thing the last year has taught us, it’s to have a greater appreciation for our travels (and the planet) and outdoor retailer Decathlon co
Wanderlust1 min readEarth Sciences
Don’t Miss...
French Polynesia comprises five main island groups: Society, Tuamotu, Austral, Marquesas and Gambier. Most visited are the Society Islands (home to Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora); least visited is the Gambier Archipelago, which is unusual trait in bei
Wanderlust1 min readEarth Sciences
Local Expert
“Don’t overlook Tahiti. The natural beauty of French Polynesia’s biggest island – which is divided into Tahiti Nui and Tahiti Iti – will leave you wondering why you’re not staying longer. Here you’ll find Jurassic Park- like scenery and black-sand be
Wanderlust2 min readFashion
Iconic Wander
Duration: 10-14 days Best for: Hiking, culture, great outdoors, flora Route: Tahiti, Moorea, Tahaa Why do it: See the sights, shop local and then get some exercise while filling up on tropical mountain jungle mana. The 118 islands of French Polyn
Wanderlust3 min readCooking, Food & Wine
Tahiti’s Wild Corner
The smaller, southern loop of Tahiti’s figure eight shape is called Tahiti Iti, meaning ‘Little Tahiti’. This is one of the most alluring parts of the island, half of which can only be accessed by boat or on foot. Drive to Teahupoo, a traditional vil
Wanderlust4 min read
Inca Ambling
A precise-cut block – neat corners, straight edges – sat in the middle of the shallow stream. It had, I imagined, spent centuries slow-tumbling from the ruins further up the canyon, inching past sheer, tight cliffs and hand-hewn terraces, past the lu
Wanderlust1 min read
Sail The Marquesas And Beyond
A hybrid cargo and cruise ship that’s brought thousands of adventurous travellers to the Marquesas Islands over the past 30-plus years,the Aranui, now offers trips to other far-flung destinations including French Polynesia’s Austral, Gambier and Tuam
Wanderlust5 min read
7 Routes To Consider In The CUSCO REGION
Length: 5 days Difficulty: Moderate For many, the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is a Peru must-do. Most complete the route in four days, which means a pre-dawn start to reach the trailhead, queuing with almost 500 others (the maximum daily al
Wanderlust3 min read
The Trip
Capital: Lima Population: 32 million Language: Spanish, Quechua, Aymara Time: GMT-5 International dialling code: +51 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Peruvian Nuevo sol (S/), currently around S/5 to the UK£. Jan-Feb Rainy season. Trek
Wanderlust3 min readEarth Sciences
Find Freedom On The ISEL TRAIL
In Austria’s East Tirol, one of the last free-flowing glacial rivers – the Isel – winds its way from the Umbalkees Glacier to Lienz. The Isel Trail, opened in 2020, offers a multi-day hike through the High Tauern National Park. It’s a valley of rugge
Wanderlust2 min read
6 More Places To See EUROPEAN BEARS
Finland has one of the largest bear populations in Europe, estimated at around 2,000. Several companies offer bear-watching trips in the Lakeland area between April and September. Overnight stays in hides are on offer, eg at Martinselkonen Nature Res
Wanderlust1 min read
25 COSTA RICA Bucket list EXPERIENCES
Join Julia Bradbury and travellers Ash Bhardwaj, Chloe Gunning and Sian Lewis in finding sanctuary in Costa Rica. Head off to the brand-new website to discover their inspirational videos and articles, and to catch up on their free virtual events. Nat
Wanderlust3 min read
Adventure
Costa Rica’s rivers swell during rainy season, so the best time to raft is from May to October. Rivers are graded; slow currents are classed as one or two, while six is the most challenging. Nervous? Then avoid ones with names like The Terminator (on
Wanderlust3 min read
Sustainability
The first step to sustainable travel? Book yourself into an eco-lodge, preferably one with a Certificate of Sustainable Tourism (CST). They exist in harmony with their surroundings and offer low-impact adventures galore. Near Corcovado National Park,
Wanderlust3 min read
NATURE & WILDLIFE
The undeniable star of Costa Rica’s jungles are sloths. They may be slow moving, but that doesn’t make them any easier to see. These smiling creatures live all over Costa Rica, one of the few countries that have both the two- and three-toed species.
Wanderlust4 min read
Julia Bradbury
You launched a podcast last year – A Little Bit of Positive? Yeah, just like the rest of the planet! It’s with Giles Paley-Phillips, one of the kindest people I know.There are so many podcasts out there but we felt that you can’t have too many good
Wanderlust3 min read
Make It Happen
Rafting the Pacuare river, gazing at the puffing Póas Volcano, canyoning, thermal pool dipping and wildlife watching: during this eight-day adventure with Journey Latin America, your feet will hardly touch the ground. The exhilarating days are bound
Wanderlust3 min readRegional & Ethnic
Culture
Since being to introduced to Costa Rica in the late 1700s, coffee has become one of Costa Rica’s top exports. By law, the country only grows 100% Arabica beans; Coffee grows in eight regions; among these, Tarrazú is thought to produce the highest qua
Wanderlust3 min read
Wellbeing
Yogis should head to the northeastern Nosara region, famous for its wellness retreats. With its long stretches of golden sands and expanses of forests, you’ll soon see why it is so easy to relax here. At Nosara’s Harmony Hotel, guests can combine mor
Wanderlust1 min read
How Many Have You Ticked Off?
☐ 1 Conquer the rapids ☐ 2 Fly through the trees ☐ 3 Swim with sharks ☐ 4 Gaze in awe at the volcanoes ☐ 5 Trek the jungle ☐ 1 Stay in an eco-lodge ☐ 2 Volunteer your time ☐ 3 Eat at an eco-farm ☐ 4 Protect the wild ☐ 5 Take the Pura Vida Pledge ☐ 1
Wanderlust10 min read
25 Places Plotting A GREENER FUTURE
The small city of Sedona, which sits amid Arizona’s spectacular buttes, canyons and pine forests, had the classic problem of many similar tourism gateways: horrendous over-crowding during peak season. But since 2019, it has worked with the Global Sus
Wanderlust3 min read
Ålesund & Bergen
Strung across a hook-shaped peninsula on a dramatic archipelago, Ålesund has long been an important centre of fishing and shipbuilding, as well as a gateway to the fjords and Sunnmøre Alps inland. A 1904 fire led to Germany’s Kaiser Wilhelm rebuildin
Wanderlust3 min read
St Augustine, Florida
Miami is sparkling and raucous; Orlando is full of thrills; but the little town of St Augustine, nestled into Florida’s historic coast, has something those glitzy big cities lack: charm. Founded in 1565, St Augustine, 65km south of Jacksonville, is N
Wanderlust2 min read
Six Places That Will Ground You In Native Culture
The state’s largest city is home to the Anchorage Museum (anchoragemuseum. org), which honours native heritage through soundscapes, storytelling and a permanent exhibition that features everything from ceremonial masks to an embroidered dog blanket.
Wanderlust2 min read
Alaska
The chance to hear the haunting song of humpback whales or to watch one breach draws two million visitors to Alaska each summer, more than half of whom visit on a cruise. But beyond its wildlife and scenery, there’s also a wealth of culture to be fou
Wanderlust3 min read
Luang Prabang’s 7 Best Sleeps
Built from teak and rosewood borne by elephants across the Nam Khan River, Khamboua House (left) is an exquisite example of local Lao architecture, sitting pretty behind the frangipani blossom. Part of 3 Nagas – three buildings straddling the quiet m
Wanderlust1 min read
Need To Know
Location: Northern Sudan, 230km north of capital Khartoum. Getting there: There are no direct flights from the UK to Khartoum. Turkish Airlines flies to Khartoum via Istanbul, Egyptair flies via Cairo. Getting around: It’s possible to catch a bus f
Wanderlust1 min read
Need To Know
Population: 3.6 million Languages: Spanish; English widely spoken in Montevideo. African-Uruguayans pepper their Spanish with Africa-derived words. Timezone: GMT-3 International dialling code: +598 2 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for up to
Wanderlust4 min read
Montevideo, Uruguay
Montevideo may be less glam than Buenos Aires but it has some advantages over its rival. For one thing, its centre is small, walkable and encircled by the River Plate – sea breezes keep the city airy, and you can walk to La Rambla promenade in a matt
Wanderlust3 min read
7 Steps To Planning An Eco Friendly Trip
When it comes to sustainability, different countries have different priorities. So if responsible travel really is important to you, take a look at your destination’s eco-credentials before you book. Are its nature reserves outstanding? What’s its st
Wanderlust1 min read
Ask A Local
“Sports fans visiting this soccer-mad country should see Parque Batlle and the Centenary Stadium, where the first World Cup took place in 1930; the Soccer Museum is a must. Also in the park is the marvellous ‘La Carreta’ monument, a history lesson in
Wanderlust4 min read
Orkney
It was when the Atlantic surf starting drawing me down towards the village of Skara Brae that Orkney really started to sink in. From the visitor centre, I passed signs that marked more recent constructions – from the Pyramids to Stonehenge – transpor
Wanderlust1 min read
4 Top Things To Do
Stroll around the postcard pretty stone streets of historic Stromness with local Erland Cooper in your ears as big skies and Scapa Flow views swirl all around. Linger in wee shops and the Pier Arts Centre, an art gallery and cultural hub that showcas
Wanderlust4 min read
Nur-Sultan
Anyone who visited Tselinograd in 1991, the year Kazakhstan became independent, and then asked a tour operator to take them back again 30 years later, would be in for a shock. They would wonder, not unreasonably, if the city they saw today – now call
Wanderlust1 min read
Need To Know
International dialling code: +7 Currency: Kazakhstan Tenge (KZT) Getting there: Direct flights to Nur-Sultan from the United Kingdom are currently suspended, but you can fly via Moscow (the fastest route), Istanbul or Tashkent. The airport is aroun
Wanderlust1 min read
Stay Here...
Nochleg is a well-designed, well-run and – most importantly – clean and safe hostel option for budget travellers. It’s within easy walking distance of the Baiterek Tower and the State Theatre of Opera and Ballet, right opposite Jetisu Park and the Is
Wanderlust1 min read
4 Top Things To Do
Climb… to the top of the Baiterek Tower for panoramic views across Nur-Sultan. The design of this monument was inspired by a Kazakh folk tale of a mythical bird of happiness which laid its golden egg in the tree of life. Eat… authentic Kazakh cuisine
Wanderlust1 min read
Wanderlust Recommends
• Nur Soultan: Your Soul is Here – www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj9kVX0G20s • “Very Nice!” Kazakhstan Tourism’s official new slogan (and response to Borat) – www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRGXq4t9wY4 • This is the latest album by Ninety One, Kazakhstan’s bigges
Wanderlust2 min read
Styria & Graz
It’s easy to see why Styria is eulogised as the ‘Green Heart’ of landlocked Austria.The state is almost 60% tree-cloaked and home to one national park – Gesäuse – and seven nature parks. Hiking is the traditional way of exploring, and there are optio
Wanderlust2 min read
STYRIA & GRAZ – IN THREE DAYS…
Graz is a thoroughly walkable city. Kick off at the Schlossberg, with the city sprawling below, and don’t miss the new GrazMuseum Schlossberg while you’re up here. Descend now south towards the Murinsel artificial island – which seems to bring Graz p
Wanderlust2 min read
Don’t Miss...
Schladming A hiking oasis in the Dachstein Mountains, home to Styria’s highest peak and over 900km of bike routes. Ride a gondola up to the Dachstein Glacier to get close to the ice. www.schladming-dachstein.at Admont Abbey This Benedictine Abbey ha
Wanderlust1 min read
Stay Here...
This art nouveau grand dame is the most glamorous address in Graz. Rooms are stripped-back stylish, and period art and furnishings abound. It has a great central location too, right by the river. www.grandhotelwiesler.com This relaxing spa resort, a
Wanderlust1 min read
4 Top Things To Do
Eat chocolate! Lots of it, at the Zotter Chocolate Factory in Riegersburg. Learn how the delicious sweet stuff is conjured from bean to bar, before stuffing yourself silly. www.zotter.at Ski year-round. Depending on snow conditions, it is possible to
Wanderlust1 min read
View From Above
A kaleidoscope of Italian history, Verona’s flourished during the Roman period, the Middle Ages and the Renaissance too. But far from being an overrun museum city, Verona maintains its joie de vivre; its winding streets are full of lively bars, intim
Wanderlust1 min read
Ask A Local
“I recommend taking a leisurely stroll through the historic city centre of Graz on a Sunday evening and enjoying the views of the Clock Tower and the Schlossberg. My favourite places to eat are the inns in my village of Kalsdorf, which offer deliciou
Wanderlust1 min read
Need To Know
International dialling code: +43. Currency: Euro (€) Getting there: No airlines currently fly direct from the UK to Graz; flights go via hubs such as Vienna and Frankfurt. Buses from the airport run to Graz Puntigam (ten minutes) for trams to the c
Wanderlust3 min read
Pyramids of Meroe
If someone asked you which country has the most pyramids, you’d immediately know the answer, right? A big pat on the back if you said Sudan. However, even armed with that knowledge, it’s still a jolt when you’re driving the highway north-east of Khar
Wanderlust1 min read
Top Tips
A high percentage of tourist businesses in Cusco are ‘informal’ (ie, illegal). If a trip looks cheap, there’s likely a reason why. New post-COVID-19 regulations should help, but do your research. The APTAE (aptae.pe) is a group of operators that have
Wanderlust1 min read
Welcome...
Everybody that you meet in Costa Rica has this wonderful expression: Pura Vida! And it’s not just a greeting: It basically means goodbye, have a lovely day, how are you? It’s always said with a huge smile, and I think it really encapsulates the atmos
Wanderlust1 min read
At A Glance
Population: 45,747 Average July temp: 14.5°C Famous for: Art Nouveau architecture, cod fishing (and eating), shipbuilding, access to famous fjords like the Geirangerfjord. Population: 283,929 Average July temp: 15.6°C Famous for: Its seven hills
Wanderlust2 min read
Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville
Seville’s storied Hotel Alfonso XIII was commissioned by – and named after – the King of Spain for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929, serving as the residence for visiting international dignitaries but with a bigger aim: to become the grandest ho
Wanderlust3 min readEarth Sciences
Blue Lagoon Circuit
Duration: 14-21 days Best for: Watersports, beaches, marine life, relaxing Route: Moorea, Tetiaroa, Bora Bora, Fakarava, Rangiroa, Ahe, Raivavae, Gambier Why do it: To enjoy warm, bright waters – both remote and less so – and let the ocean’s mana
Wanderlust2 min read
History & archaeology
Duration: 12-16 days Best for: History, adventure, art, traditional folklore, culture Route: Tahiti, Huahine, Raiatea, Hiva Oa, Nuku Hiva Why do it: To get in touch with the spiritual and physical past of the islands. Take a voyage through comple
Wanderlust4 min read
Pristine Palau
“A lii!”The customs officer greeted me with a huge smile and a different kind of welcome message: “Enjoy pristine paradise Palau and please don’t disturb or harm the natural environment around you.”Then, instead of the usual passport entry stamp, I g
Wanderlust7 min read
Searching for WILD SPAIN
My eyes ached. I lowered my binoculars to blink back some life into them then resumed the vigil.Wildlife watching, I reflected, sometimes involves staring for a very long time at nothing while hoping, in vain, for something. But with expert guide Fer
Wanderlust2 min read
FINDING MANA IN French Polynesia
I jumped off our small skiff into the sapphire ocean outside of the pass into Ahe Atoll. Immediately, through my mask, I spotted a school of jacks, their bodies glistening silver and gold in the surface-filtered light, their electric-blue edges makin
Wanderlust1 min read
Need To Know
Palau’s dry (and high) season runs between December and April. This is also the best time for diving, with clear, calm seas. June and September are best avoided with the possibility of rough sea conditions and lower visibility. These days, the US$. I
Wanderlust3 min read
Crete, Greece
Knossos is steeped in mystery. In legend it was the seat of King Minos, beneath whose palace the bull-headed Minotaur hunted its victims in the labyrinth built by Daedalus. In reality it was the hub of a Bronze Age empire that held sway over the Aege
Wanderlust1 min read
Ask A Local
“A gentle walk home through Stromness’ cobbled streets ‘that uncoil like a sailor’s rope’ and I’m back in my own sea haven watching the gulls and listening to starlings roost under the Pole Star Pier. I can walk a little further around to the Point o
Wanderlust2 min readCooking, Food & Wine
Background Info
Food Enjoy seafood so fresh that it still smells of the ocean. For traditional Florida recipes and farm-to-table food, check out The Floridian (thefloridianstaug.com), while Cap’s on the Water (capsonthewater.com) offers great views of the Intracoast
Wanderlust1 min read
Historic Sites
Mose (pronounced ‘Moh-Say’) was the first legally sanctioned ‘free black town’ in the country. Risking their lives to escape the English plantations of Carolina, African-born slaves crossed the dangerous swamps south to Spanish-controlled Florida whe
Wanderlust7 min read
Plan Your Perfect Costa Rica Escape
Audley Travel has specialists who have travelled extensively around Costa Rica and their expert local knowledge is invaluable when it comes to planning your bespoke tour. Audley Travel has designed a number of itinerary ideas to inspire you and they
Wanderlust2 min read
The Trip
The author travelled to Spain on a three-night trip with the European Nature Trust. Steppes Travel (01285 880980; steppestravel.com) offers a tailor-made eight-day On The Trail of Bears in Northern Spain trip from £1,995pp (based on a group of six tr

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