White Horses

My mum loves telling the story about how, when she was pregnant with me, she would head down to the beach and dig a hole at the waterline, then let it pool up with water to take the weight off her and cool down. She believes that’s when my obsession

It’s Easter full moon in March, two weeks out from a hernia operation I’m due to have, and I wake up at 4am. The moonlight outside my bedroom window is incredibly bright but the silence is deafening. Even the birds are quiet, waiting for daybreak. I

Taz first showed up on our radar a few years ago along with his twin sister, Paumalu, when they were four-week-old pups. We had just lost our beloved 15-year-old dog, Junior Boy, and it was devastating coming home to a dog-less home. So when our frie

When it comes to naming the Mentawai Islands’ premium right-hander, arguably the finest surf discovery of the modern era, surfing’s traditional power brokers see things a little differently. “Lance’s Right mate. It’s fucken Lance’s… right?” I’ve just

The caravan’s mine, I bought it about four years ago. At the time I was travelling back and forth, paying what I thought was silly amounts on rent that was just going into a bottomless pit while living in shared houses, which I wasn’t really enjoying

Funafuti Atoll’s main coral road is bustling. Sputtering motorbikes and cackling kids dart across the late afternoon heat while unamused adults watch on from their fusis, or shops. We seek refreshment at Tefota Mini-Mart where the young clerk, Katala

I’d been looking forward to crossing the border from Europe into North Africa for a long time – 10 years, to be exact, after my first proper trip overseas had come to an abrupt end. I was fresh out of high school back then and travelling on the funds

After falling in love with photography, it was somehow inevitable that my work would revolve around the ocean. Line-up shots evolved into water perspectives, then to marine life, and soon I was taking as many photos below the surface as I was above i

I had heard about this area of Alaska before. It’s known for its incredible natural beauty, with mountains that rise from the sea and salmon that hit dry flies like it’s their last meal. But unknown to most, there’s surf, too. Really good surf. My de

It’s been a little over a month since I’ve been home. And my mate Westy died less than a month before that. Cycling into town for a party in Warrnambool on a Saturday night, he was hit by a ute. A few excruciating weeks visiting the ICU and then the

My alarm sounds at 5:30am but I am already awake. A combination of sheer excitement, anticipation and a severe underestimation of how cold sleeping in a rooftop tent in the desert during winter would be. It’s my first night in Namibia and I’m in a to

I’d never seen a board break like that before. A jagged snap, vertical from the tail up, tracing the line of the stringer before blowing out from the rail like a tree branch. It looked like a lightning rod had struck it, rather than the lip of a Nort

It’s not until you don’t get to say goodbye that you realise it’s not a given. When Mum died it was brutal: two years of watching her fade away in growing agony as the cancer destroyed her. But at least we could see the parting coming. At least we ha

He puts the next cigarette in his mouth. It’s dry and stale. The filter sticks to his lip. The plastic lighter flares as he leans in, picking off a few eyebrow hairs. No matter. At ten cigs a week, he doesn’t smoke enough of the things to keep a pack

Surfing is mine. The car park spot nearest the path to the beach is mine. I’m always first. Occasionally a backpacker’s van might have spent the night. I park in the next spot and make as much noise as possible. They’re in my spot. The cobwebs that w

Hi darling. It’s me. It’s a quarter to eight so you’re probably out on your walk still. I’m down at Shelleys. Think I managed to get out of the house without waking you. It was pretty early, got the kayak in the water down at Spooks when the stars we

Seven years ago I found myself looking at a picture frame and imagining a wave curling out of it. I wanted to recreate that sweet anticipation and pumping excitement you feel when you arrive at the beach and the waves are good, with the promise of un

It started on a road trip in 2015. I drove from Margaret River to Byron Bay with a handful of friends for a video project called Real Axe. Creed McTaggart, Ellis Ericson, Beau Foster, Toby Cregan and myself spent six weeks driving and surfing our bra

It started with the shock of my father Ken’s death in 1988. Following this, I was handed his paintbrushes and oils one day while visiting my grandparents’ farm where my dad had spent his last days. Ultimately my father’s death lead me to depths of da

It was the winter of ’82. Not a lot sticks out in my mind about that season, except the Pipe Masters contest and the story I’m about to tell. This was the year Michael Ho won the contest wearing a fibreglass cast on his broken wrist, a result of a sk

George Greenough • Hugh McLeod • John Young • Royce Leu • Christian Reid • Marlton Family • Kurt Avouris • Nick Greally • Esra Aoukal • Shannon Platt • Rex Gillard • Julia White • Gary Saunders • Adrian Peirce • Adrian Peirce • Mick Rudder • Adam Tay